MEDIEVAL KING'S FEAST
Originally made with fresh
Asian-variety gourds since pumpkins and winter
squash was unheard of at the time, this version
from the thirteenth century was used by
Taillevent, the chef, who cooked for Charles V
and Charles VI. These recipes appear in the
cookbook THE MEDEIVAL KITCHEN: RECIPES FROM
FRANCE AND ITALY which is written by Okile Redon,
Francoise Sabban, and Silvano Serventi, with
translation by Edward Schnieder.
The Autumn Menu for ten-twelve that they
suggest in the text begins with a 1st course
of seasonal fruits and sweet wine. We will
complete their menu with each recipe we add from
their book. You can purchase the cookbook
yourself at any fine bookstore.
2nd Course A:
SQUASH SOUP
5 1/2
lbs
winter squash or pumpkin (2.5kg) 4 cups almond
milk (1liter) which can be made using a little
more than 4 cups of water and 2/3 cup almonds
(100g) 4 T (2 ounces/60 grams) pure butter salt
to taste Peel the squash and remove the seeds.
Cut it into 1-inch (2cm) chunks and cook in
boiling salted water for about 10 minutes. The
squash must remain firm and must not fall apart;
you will need to be vigilant, as cooking time
will vary with the variety of squash or pumpkin
you use. Drain, and press gently in a sieve to
remove excess water. chop to a coarse puree with
a knife or in a food processor. Place the puree
into a saucepan, add the almond milk and butter,
and bring to the boil. Check for salt before
serving.
2nd course B:
Sautéed Mushrooms With Spices
generous 1 lb wild or cultivated mushrooms (500g)
1 small onion olive oil 1 pinch freshly ground
pepper 1 pinch ground nutmeg 2 pinches ground
coriander seed salt Trim and clean the
mushrooms; if they are large, cut them in half
or into quarters. cook in boiling water for
about 10 minutes; drain thoroughly. Meanwhile,
finely chop the onion and sweat it in a little
olive oil until very soft. Add the mushrooms,
raise the heat to high and sauté for a minute.
Season with salt and the spices, lower the heat,
cover the pan, and simmer for about 15 minutes.
From time to time, check on the mushrooms and
give them a stir. Serve when golden brown
3rdCourse A:
Spit-Roasted Hare served with Black Sauce
(Poivre Noir)
1 young hare, skinned and cleaned
4 oz. Fresh pork fatback (100g)
1 medium onion
scant ½ cup dry white wine (10cl)
¼ cup verjuice (5cl) OR juice of half a lemon
mixed with a tablespoon of water
1 TB good wine vinegar
salt
Preheat oven to 425 degrees Farenheit (220 Celsius).
With a thin-bladed, very sharp knife, carefully
remove the shiny membrane that covers the meat;
also remove any tough, stringy tissue like
tendons and so forth, taking great care not to
damage the meat. Cut the pork fat into small
strips and, using a narrow-bladed knife or a
larding needle, evenly lard the entire hare. Fix
the hare to a spit and roast on a rotisserie
with a dripping pan beneath, or place in a
shallow roasting pan on a rack. Roast the hare
for about half an hour, basting it frequently
with the drippings. The meat should be just
pink, at which point it will be at its juiciest
and most tender. While the hare is roasting,
slice the onion very thinly, and when the meat
has cooked for about 15 minutes add the onions
to the roasting pan (or dripping pan if your are
using a rotisserie). Five minutes before the
hare is done, add the wine, the verjuice, and
the vinegar to the pan. When the hare is done,
let it rest a few minutes, then carve it into
serving portions; meanwhile, over medium heat,
reduce the pan juices if necessary. Season the
portions of hare and the sauce with salt to
taste. Pour the sauce over the meat just before
serving and serve the Black Sauce on the side.
Black Sauce
1 slice country bread
1/3 cup verjuice (10cl), or equal parts cider
vinegar and water
1 TB wine vinegar
1 scant tsp. Freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. Ground ginger
salt
Toast or grill the bread until very dark. In
a small stainless steel or other non-reactive
pan, soak it in the verjuice and the vinegar
until it has completely fallen apart. Mash the
bread with a fork and stir in the spices. Slowly
bring to the boil and simmer until thickened.
Add salt to taste. If you want a smoother sauce,
you can press it through a fine strainer. Also
great served with tender steaks.
Course#3B
Parsley-studded Lamb or Mutton with Pink
Garlic Sauce
1 shoulder of lamb or mutton about 3-1/4
pounds (1.5kg)
1 bunch parsley
salt
optional: wine vinegar or verjuice (for
substitution, see above recipe)
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit
(220 Celsius). Wash and dry te parsley, and pick
through it, choosing about fifteen very leafy
sprigs. If you have a rotisserie, place the meat
on a skewer. If not, place it on a rack in a
roasting pan. Roast for about 20 minutes; then
remove it, and use a paring knife to cut fairly
deep holes into the flesh. Push a sprig of
parsley into each hole. On the one hand, you
should be careful not to burn yourself; on the
other, work as quickly as you can so that the
meat does not get cold. Return to the oven for
another 40 minutes, or longer depending on how
well cooked you like your lamb. Turn off the
oven and leave the door ajar; let the meat rest
for about 15 minutes before serving. Carve the
meat, and serve on a warmed platter. Place
dishes containing salt, vinegar, and verjuice on
the table along with the Pink Garlic Sauce in
separate containers.
Pink Garlic Sauce
1 generous pound of red grapes (500g)
½ cup almonds (70g)
3 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs
salt
Stem the grapes, put them into a stainless
steel or other non-reactive pan and crush them
thoroughly with your hands. Alternatively, you
can puree them coarsely in a food processor.
Bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes,
then strain, press to extract the maximum
possible juice. Meanwhile, blanch the almonds
and dry them thoroughly. Grind them in a mortar
or in a blender, along with the garlic. Soak the
breadcrumbs in about ½ cup of the reduced grape
juice and, when softened, whish until smooth;
blend in the almond-garlic mixture. Whisk in
additional grape juice until the mixture forms a
creamy sauce. (The entire preparation could also
be done in the blender.) Check for salt before
serving.
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